HOH RAINFOREST, OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, WA:
Before the sun began to rise, I embarked on yet another adventure into the heart of nature, a ritual that nourishes my body, mind, and soul. Driving through the coastal darkness, the road felt like a blank canvas, inviting me to reflect on the profound gratitude I carry for those who have dedicated their lives to preserving our wilderness. Inspired by John Muir’s legacy, I felt a deep connection to the landscapes he passionately worked to preserve. It was as if the whispers of early morning were reminding me of the importance of both nature and silence, and the solace they offer amidst our noisy lives. As I rolled down my window, I could almost hear the soft rustling of leaves and the distant sounds of wildlife, each a note in nature’s symphony, reflecting the tireless work of people like Gordon Hempton, who strive to protect the precious gift of silence.
My journey to the Hoh Rainforest began the night before, nestled in a cozy spot in Hoquiam, where dreams of vibrant greenery began to flood my imagination. The early morning mist wrapped around me as I drove into the Olympic National Park, and my excitement grew as I anticipated the adventure ahead. Reaching the trailhead, I was greeted by the fragrant, humid embrace of the rainforest, the air thick with the scent of earth and rain, sweetened by the scent of Kelly’s perfume on my bracelet. Each step onto the trail felt like a step into a sacred space, where ancient trees stood like wise guardians, their moss-draped branches filtering the soft morning light. The ground beneath my boots felt alive, squishing and giving away, linking me to the vibrant life surrounding me. With each rustle, I felt a deep sense of belonging in this emerald cathedral, excited to uncover the hidden treasures that awaited me on my hike.
Wandering further into the depths of the Hoh Rainforest, I soon reached the area of “One Square Inch of Silence.” inviting me to stray off the trail and step into the quietest place in the United States. When I closed my eyes, the world around me fell away, and I was enveloped in a profound stillness that felt both timeless and grounding. It was a reminder that silence is not merely the absence of sound; it is an invitation to reflect on my journey, my memories, and the essence of life itself. In this sacred moment, I felt lighter, as if the burdens of the world had eased, allowing me to embrace the beauty of nature and the enduring spirit of the forest. As I continued on, I embraced the chance to reflect and celebrate the journey, the silence, and my profound gratitude for the wilderness that consistently inspires and nurtures my soul.
The Journey…
My journey to the Hoh Rainforest began the night before, as I settled into a cozy little spot in Hoquiam, about a 2-hour drive from the trailhead. I woke up before dawn with the world still wrapped in darkness. Driving through the misty morning coastline, I reflected on the beauty of our wilderness and the gratitude I felt for those who work to preserve it. The air was crisp and cool, and the thought of my adventure ahead filled me with anticipation. As I turned toward the Olympic Mountains, somewhere near Ruby Beach, the horizon began to blush with the first hints of sunrise, gently muted by the wispy clouds in the morning sky. By the time I arrived at the Hoh River Trailhead, I could feel the humid embrace of the rainforest, with the air thick from recent storms, carrying the rich scent of earth and rain. The local forecast predicted more rain, but I was prepared, with my boots laced tightly, eager to explore the depths of this temperate rainforest, where ancient trees, many towering above 200 feet, standing tall like timeless guardians.
Stepping onto the trail, I was immediately enveloped by the lush forest surrounding me. The ground squished softly beneath my boots, giving away, while a tapestry of ferns and vibrant moss spread across the landscape in every direction. At times, it felt like I was walking on a sponge, each step releasing the rich scent of damp earth, alerting nearby wildlife that they were not alone. The towering trees loomed above, their branches draped with moss that swayed gently like nature’s curtains, filtering the soft, muted light. Every now and then, I looked up, captivated by the immense size of these giants, their bark rough and ancient, some over 1,000 years, whispering the forest’s secrets far beyond my years. As I explored deeper into this lush sanctuary, I sensed the presence of wildlife around me. I was greeted by the striking Roosevelt Elk, Black-tailed Deer, and a range of smaller creatures that quietly blended into the forest. The trail wound through the ferns and trees, and for a moment, the outside world faded away, replaced by nature’s symphony—the gentle drip of water, the rustling leaves, and the distant calls of birds and squirrels filled the quiet space.
Shortly beyond three miles, I reached the point where I would leave the main trail in search of “One Square Inch of Silence.” I noticed the distinctive tree that marked the path, but the true indicator would be the silence itself, a striking contrast to the usual buzz of life. As I closed my eyes and listened, I felt time stretch and soften around me. No music, no airplanes, no hum of air conditioning, no distractions—just the gentle rhythm of my breath and the quiet heartbeat of the forest. This was not the absence of sound, it was…“the presence of everything.” In this sacred moment, my thoughts wandered to the memories that have shaped my life, much like the trees and foliage that define this landscape. I was overwhelmed by the awareness that this has always existed, just as it is, unwavering and non-judging, throughout all my life’s experiences, without regard to any personal turbulence. I returned to the main trail, feeling lighter with a recalibrated perspective, as if the weight of the world had eased. Continuing, I allowed the beauty to wash over me—an embrace of nature’s constancy that welcomed me to reflect and rejoice in the journey, the silence, and the enduring spirit of the forest.
Gratitude…
This morning, as I drove through the stillness of the dark, the road ahead felt like a blank canvas, ready to be explored in silence. This morning, no playlist, just the hum of my engine, accompanied by the sound of my tires where they met the road. Surprisingly, it took me a few minutes to figure out how to turn-off the audio in my car. The solitude wrapped around me, gently reminding me of the wilderness I was about to embrace. In this moment of tranquility, I found myself reflecting on my gratitude for those who have dedicated themselves to protecting our wilderness and the silence it offers us. John Muir, often referred to as the “Father of the National Parks,” comes to mind. His relentless efforts to preserve the beauty of our national parks resonate deeply within me. Muir’s passion for the pristine landscapes of the Cascades and Mount Rainier, where Camp Muir stands as a testament to his enduring legacy, inspires me to honor the wildness he fought so valiantly to protect. As I traveled these roads, I felt a connection to his spirit—a quiet promise to cherish the natural wonders that nourish my soul.
The light softens as I drive into the rainforest, and I reflect on Gordon Hempton and his mission to protect the rare gift of silence in our increasingly noisy world. His discovery of “One Square Inch of Silence,” recognized as the quietest place in the United States, serves as the foundation for his groundbreaking efforts. Hempton’s commitment to capturing and preserving natural soundscapes reminds me that silence is not merely the absence of noise; it’s a sacred space for reflection and connection. As I drove toward the trailhead, I rolled down my window and could almost hear the whispers of nature that Hempton treasures so deeply—the rustling leaves and the gentle calls of wildlife, each sound a note in nature’s symphony. I felt a deep gratitude for his efforts to raise awareness about the importance of space unpolluted by unnatural noise, ensuring that the beauty of nature’s sounds is always protected. As the sun rose and the world slowly awakened, I felt a renewed commitment to preserve the wilderness and the silence it holds, honoring both Muir and Hempton as I embarked in the areas they fought to protect. For example, I silenced the external audible beeps and clicks on my car, deeming them an unnecessary noise as I entered the rainforest.
Reflections…
This morning, I strolled along the enchanting Hoh River Trail, where the air was filled with the rich scent of damp earth and ancient trees, each holding secrets older than my lifetime. As I ventured deeper into the heart of the rainforest, my thoughts kept drifting to the “One Square Inch of Silence,” an elusive spot a few miles ahead, marked by a small stone resting on a moss-covered log. Known as the quietest place in the United States, today, silence was my guiding thought. The inspiration for this hike sparked a few days ago when I picked up the book One Man’s Search for Natural Silence in a Noisy World by acoustic ecologist Gordon Hempton. His words struck a chord with me: “Silence is not the absence of something but the presence of everything.” I reflected on this during my drive to the trailhead. However, as I stepped onto the trail, a familiar tension coiled in my chest. Sitting in silence can be a double-edged sword—it’s medicine for the spirit, yet it can also feel like an invitation to face the chaos within. I remembered something I heard a while back: “You find yourself in the gaps between the words.” Those gaps can be uncomfortable, but they’re where the magic truly happens.
As I continued along the winding path, adorned with ferns and moss beneath the towering old-growth trees, I found myself reflecting on the concept of Contemplative Intelligence (CQ), adjacent to Emotional Intelligence (EQ), it emphasizes reflection and the ability to cultivate insight. It struck me how this concept acts as a lens for self-discovery, uncovering parts of myself that I often hide beneath layers of expectation. The lush forest enveloped me, a living testament to the importance of being attuned to my true essence. I recognized how often I’ve silenced my own voice to conform to the molds created by others, stifling my needs and desires—perhaps this is the underlying explanation of imposter syndrome. Amid the towering trees, I felt a sense of kinship—a feeling of standing tall and resilient like them, with each ring in their trunks representing seasons of growth. They didn’t rush through life; instead, they embraced each moment, teaching me the value of patience. The moss covering the forest floor reminded me of the beauty found in acceptance, transforming what could be mundane or even undesirable into something extraordinary. Nature offered me yet another lesson, subtly woven into every step I took.
Taking a moment to fully immerse myself in this experience, I engaged in a practice I didn’t initially recognize I was cultivating: Forest Bathing, or Shinrin-Yoku. This involves immersing oneself in nature to enhance well-being. It’s a slow, intentional experience where I allow my senses to lead the way. I ran my fingers along the rough bark of the towering trees, listening to the rustling leaves overhead while inhaling the earthy scent mingling with the cool forest air. I didn’t notice until later, but with each wipe of my brow, the air grew sweeter—the fragrance enhanced with the scent of Kelly’s perfume from my bracelet. Each sensory moment deepened my connection to the forest’s healing essence and her presence. In this space, I felt the silence of nature envelop me, teaching me patience, acceptance, and the beauty of stillness. I began to understand that in this sacred place, silence wasn’t merely the absence of noise; it was an invitation to explore the depths of my own thoughts and feelings.
At the turn on this out-and-back hike, I settled into a quiet moment, reflecting on the music that honors silence, even though it often emphasizes the act of simply not speaking. A lyric from Depeche Mode echoed in my mind: “Words are very unnecessary / They can only do harm.” It reminded me of the importance of listening—not just to the world around me but also to that quiet voice within. I also appreciate the silence the song offers at the end; it’s a refreshing pause in a streaming playlist—especially for someone who can’t find the off button. Simon & Garfunkel’s lyrics in The Sound of Silence, shares a slightly different message, “And in the naked light, I saw / Ten thousand people, maybe more / People talking without speaking / People hearing without listening.” I connected with the idea of conversations absent of meaning, a reminder of how often we navigate surface interactions and overlook the richness of genuine connection. Yet it was John Cage’s 4’33”, a piece that challenges our perception of music by presenting four minutes and thirty-three seconds of silence, that occupied my thoughts in this sacred moment. It highlighted the notion that silence can also serve as a powerful medium for connection, inviting me to tune-in to the subtleties of life that often go unnoticed—lost in the sound of silence.
As I retraced my steps back through the rainforest, I embraced the realization that silence isn’t just the absence of sound; it’s the presence of countless noises both within us and around us, free from distraction. It acts as a tool for self-growth, a pathway to authenticity, and a reminder that I don’t need perfect circumstances to connect with it. All I need is the intention to sit with the discomfort long enough for it to transform into something meaningful. And in a practical sense, I’m more aware of everyday noise simply created by stuff “left on.” Winding down unnecessary noise, even from background activities, has become a new mantra. Today’s hike was more than a simple trek through the woods; it was a pilgrimage toward understanding, acceptance, and personal clarity. With each step, I felt the weight of external expectations lift, replaced by a sense of purpose and a commitment to authenticity. As I drove home, I carried lessons from the rainforest with me, eager to unpack this experience and my trail notes in my journal. The path continues.
-Ken
- Hoh River Trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park, WA
- 47° 51′ 36.432″ -123° 56′ 4.02″
- 13.52 miles | ~535 ft elevation gain | ~5 hours
- Sunrise: 7:15 a.m. 48-57 degrees, Overcast
Musings 